New tools are always fun. Below are some tools I’ve acquired over the last few months:

• Straight punch/flange tool with 3/16″ punch (model 600ST) from Astro Pneumatic Tool Company - purchased on sale for $79.95 from KMS.
• 1/4″ angle head die grinder (composite body) (model 1240) from Astro Pneumatic Tool Company - purchased on sale for $79.99 from KMS
• Model AS1001 Professional Series HVLP Spray gun (I may have plugged it already)
• Cup Brush for Small Grinders SAIT Part Number 06416 - 2 3/4 x .014 cs M10 x 1.25 Knot Wire. This has been an excellent attachment for my electric grinder for removing scale and undercoating.
• Air In-Line Regulator with pressure gauge - Item # TAIA041 from Pit Bull. I’ve attached this to a whip hose with attachments [Milton S211 1/4 inch coupler kit + a 1/4 coupler] to make a regulator on a quick release.

I’ll try and review these tools as I get a chance to use them. So far I am really enjoying the die grinder, but I’ll see if it lasts before I make any sort of judgement.

After running into depressing rust issues on Rocket, I decided I’d spend my one car day this week accomplishing something on the Sprite. With the front suspension off, I turned to removing the rear suspension.

I’d like to say that there was something systematic about my method, but in reality I ended up turning and, in some cases, cutting things until the entire assembly was free.

For my records, I wrote the following cryptic notes:

11/16ths at front
1/2 spring strap
3/4 spring support
11/16th spring pin with spacer.

I also cut the worn brake line and the safety straps that were the last things holding the assembly to the car, so they will have to be replaced if I use this suspension set up again.

The entire mess was pulled from under the car on one of my wheel dollies. I’m one step closer to getting the Sprite onto the rotisserie.

—

Tools I need to buy:

• An SAE impact socket set that includes 9/16 and 7/16ths.
• An impact hammer “bit” with a flat face for wacking bolts out from the threaded end.

Fortunately I was able to borrow them from my neighbour today.

Also, I am really tempted to buy the lift table Costco currently has on sale. In might make a good platform to put the Sprite body onto. (I’m currently using a dolly, laid down on its side.)

Huzzah! Victory at last!

I’ve been wanting to put our Sprite onto a small homemade rotisserie of sorts. However, In order to make that practical, I needed to take all of the suspension pieces off the car. The last time I wrote I was fighting with one of the trunion bolts(?) holding the left-side, lower arm onto the car and I couldn’t get the stubborn thing off. The Sprite’s been sitting neglected ever since.

On Saturday (about six months after my last struggle with the bolt) I picked up a cheap dent pulling hammer at KMS Tools. It had a little hook attachment that I could get behind an extension coming off the bolt. I took a heat gun to the rubber (I actually got it smoking) and slammed the bolt with the hammer. In under 20 minutes… wap… I got the bolt to pop out. Finally!

Now to start working on the rear suspension. Where’s my WD40?

Stitch Welder (Welding Rods Not Included)
Item Number: 19045

Price: $69.99

Pros: Low cost, functional, no need to buy gas, good manual
Cons: Changing rods, higher temp
Needs: on/off switch, rod holding screw that can be hand tightened

OK, you are on a limited budget and you have to weld some sheetmetal on your project car. What do you do?

The best option? Go out and borrow a 220V MIG welder with continuously variable power control, gas, and perferably a spool gun. Sadly, anyone that has a higher end MIG welder probably guards it with their life and needs it in their shop. However, if you can get ahold of one, this would be the root I’d choose.

You could go out and buy or borrow a low end MIG welder. They can work, however my own experiences have not been good. Unless you can fine-tune the power output of the MIG welder, you can look forward to limited success welding sheetmetal. I burnt holes in a lot of sheet metal using the MIG welders I borrowed, although skill level was obviously a factor in that. Unfortunately, most low end models only have 3-4 fixed power settings, not a continuously variable knob for power. Every shop should have a MIG welder, but before I buy I’m holding out for something I know will work.

But what else can you do? Fortunately for me:

1. I do have access to an old, but quite good, 220V arc (stick) welder that my son inherited from his grandfather and
2. I ran across a low cost add-on. The stitch welder from Eastwood makes welding sheetmetal with an arc welder very doable.

Personally, I was a tad skeptical about how useful it would be - especially given it’s “under $75″ price point. However, it is not a gimmick. This thing actually works. I won’t go into the gory details (see Eastwood’s stitch welder instruction book for details on how it works), but suffice it to say that even a rookie like yours truly was able to create decent welds on sheet metal using this tool.

Is it perfect? No.

1. For one, you are welding with rods, not a continous spool of wire. This means that you will spend a lot of time installing new rods as you proceed. I was using 1/16th inch rods and in general this would join about 2 inches of metal before I had to use another rod. Sadly, the existing version of the welder uses a simple slotted screw to hold the rods (i.e. you need a screw driver). A screw that could be hand tightened would speed up the welding process considerably.
2. This welding attachment does not have an on/off switch. Why is this an issue? Well, I stuck a lot of rods to the surface of the metal when I was learning to use the system. If the rod stays stuck for even 2 seconds, it will melt to mush. Given that the on/off switch on my welder was outside the car when I was inside, I either needed a spotter that I could yell “off” too or I had to use all my might to yank the welding rod off the surface. An on/off switch on the attachment would be much more elegant.
3. The stitch welder is much, much better at doing recessed lap joints than butt welds. If you need to do any butt welding, I’d strongly encourage you to purchase Eastwood’s Welding Aid Tri-Pak . Putting one of these copper plates behind the gap in the butt weld makes the process much easier.

These minor negatives aside, I was very impressed by this tool. It is not a gimmick. If you have access to an arc welder with variable power control, do not hesitate to add Eastwood’s stitch welder to your collection. It is a useful tool for the hobbiest on a budget.

Overall Rating: Thumbs up

Sheesh… I don’t normally use this space for general commentary, but I had to stop and ask a question. Who the heck is naming cars at GM these days?!

I hope the Lucerne is a fabulous car or that name may be the death of another GM brand.

What imagery is brought to mind by the name? Hmmm…. let’s see:

1. Lucerne, Switzerland. Nice place, I’m sure, but the imagery goes downhill from here.
2. Alfalfa. Nice. Does the car come in green?

Then there is the one that makes me roll my eyes. Lucerne has been on my table almost as long as I remember.

3. Lucerne is the dairy products division of Canada Safeway! How to give a car a “milk toast” image gang. Sheesh. If they sell a single car in Western Canada, I’ll be amazed.

With marketing like this, who needs competition. Like I say, it better be an AMAZING car (or not really important to the bottom line) or Buick may be toast… make that milk toast.